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No Spark  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: 10-09-2010 07:02 pm
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jarnol123
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Ok here's what i've done so far...

Car used to run then one day just spluttered and stopped. Couldn't get it to start again. Since then I've replaced the fuses, the blaster ignition coil, the plugs.

I have compression and fuel but no spark. I pulled out plug #1, manually lined up the marks with TDC, checked in cylinder #1 and the piston was right there. I turned the engine over and there was no spark at the plug.

I did read that you should take off the dist cap and loosen the clamp to wiggle the distributor and check for spark with the ignition on. Can someone tell me how to do this? Not sure where the clamp is that I should loosen?

thanks a lot!

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 Posted: 10-09-2010 09:41 pm
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subwoofer
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Before you loosen too many things: Are you sure you have voltage at the coil? The fuse box is a really poor design, so it is completely possible to have a good fuse and still no voltage at the wire coming out of the fuse box. Have a helper jump a wire straight from the + terminal on the battery to the + terminal on the coil while cranking.

If it starts then the ignition is OK, if it stops again when you release the jumper wire Mr. Lucas is to blame. If it keeps running, it could be that the wire from the starter to the coil for bypassing the ballast resistor (if one is installed) is faulty - just making starting really difficult.

To get the distributor cap off, you have to release two steel spring clips holding the cap to the distributor base. Depending on dizzy orientation, one of them can be tricky to get to.

--
Joachim

Last edited on 10-09-2010 09:45 pm by subwoofer

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 Posted: 10-09-2010 10:04 pm
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jarnol123
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Yes I ran the 12v from the battery to the coil directly and no spark. I've had the dizzy cap off already and i was wondering what to check next ...

I read someone here loosened the clamp on the dizzy and turned the dizzy slightly...where is that clamp? also is that something i should try next?

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 Posted: 10-09-2010 11:17 pm
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subwoofer
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Sounds like your points have had it? Do they look burned? Have you checked the points clearance?

This could be a good time to consider a Pertronix retrofit, you will never have to worry about points and setting the ignition ever again.

--
Joachim

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 Posted: 10-09-2010 11:20 pm
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jarnol123
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don't want to sound dumb but how do i check the points? I have a allison electronic ignition near the battery...would i still have points with that?

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 Posted: 10-10-2010 02:07 pm
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497
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no points with the allison, it has a optic and special rotor along with the dizzy rotor on top, it's an older unit and maybe shot, not sure about how to trouble shoot it but should be something out there if you google it. as for the clamp, there is one at the base of the dizzy, you can see it looking between the carbs, if your dizzy loosened up it could be it is no longer turning and has slipped out so no spark.

Brett

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 Posted: 10-10-2010 05:05 pm
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jarnol123
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OK I'll check the dizzy next and report back

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 Posted: 10-10-2010 05:07 pm
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jarnol123
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if the allison unit is shot would you have a recommendation for a replacement unit?

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 Posted: 10-10-2010 05:18 pm
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subwoofer
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Pertronix is the most common, I think. Somewhere around $100 for the basic unit (Ignitor), constant energy version Ignitor II is a bit more expensive.

But as Brett said: take the cap off and verify that the rotor turns when the engine turns, it could be the dizzy has disengaged from the drive slot in the oil pump.

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Joachim

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 Posted: 10-10-2010 05:54 pm
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jarnol123
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OK i turned the engine and the rotor turned ok...you know when the car was running it fine then it started to misfire a bit and eventually cut out. I knew it wasn't a fuel problem at the time...maybe the allison unit gave out..i'm sure it was probably very old anyway...what would you replace it with??

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 Posted: 10-10-2010 06:00 pm
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subwoofer
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One of these: http://pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx

or - if you are adventurous: http://www.123ignition.nl/id/50.html

--
Joachim

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 Posted: 10-12-2010 04:31 am
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jarnol123
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I checked and my distributor is a 7755D...

Would the Pertronix Ignitor work with this?? Or would it be the Ignitor II and Ignitor III?

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 Posted: 10-12-2010 03:09 pm
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Jensen Healey
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Get the Pertronix. The 123 doesn't have the proper advance curve for the Lotus 907. If you need a new distributor get a rebuild from the club store.

In the mean time, replace your rotor.

High energy ignition like my MSD and Blaster coil setup can burn a carbon track through the rotor. It happened to me three times.

Then I got a rotor from Jeff Schlimmer at Advanced Distributors. It's a quality part, unlike the Lucas rotors.

Also watch this videoon adjusting the Allison/ Crane ignition: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bmp8QimgGkI

What he doesn't tell you is that if you buy aftermarket distributor caps, the bumps inside the cap foul the electric eye and proper adjustment is impossible.

Kurt

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 Posted: 10-12-2010 04:08 pm
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subwoofer
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Jensen Healey wrote:
Get the Pertronix. The 123 doesn't have the proper advance curve for the Lotus 907. If you need a new distributor get a rebuild from the club store.

I have absolutely no connection to 123, but I like their idea. If you take one more look at the link, you will see that I linked to the new, fully programmable, version. You can program any curve you would like, with any amount of vacuum/boost advance/retard you would like. I have played a little bit with their software and to me it is intuitive.

If it works in practice? Don't know, that's why I wrote "if you are [feeling] adventurous". All I know is that it is competitively priced. In Norway, an IgnitorII from the local distributor costs 2000NOK, while I can get the 123\TUNE for around 4000. With the pertronix, I would still have all the knackered mechanics of an old distributor.

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Joachim

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 Posted: 10-16-2010 05:44 pm
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jarnol123
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OK I've got the dizzy out...(see picture). Do I have to take anything else out or does the ignitor just fit on top? The directions aren't very good.

Attachment: Picture 020.jpg (Downloaded 40 times)

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