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 Posted: 09-10-2011 08:58 pm
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Jensen Healey
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I'm thinking of this one.

Attachment: RichThomasJH (Small).jpg (Downloaded 132 times)

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 Posted: 09-10-2011 09:20 pm
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Tim Murphy
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Jensen Healey rear bumper

I am not sure, but I thought a rear bumper was legally required in California.  Does anyone know for sure?

A couple of suggestions.  What I did on my back stainless bumber was drill new mounting holes in the car frame which moved the bumber much closer to the body.  Looks much better. 

The other thing I am thinking of is painting the lower black portion of both the front and rear bumpers the same color as the body.  I think that looks better. 

Great job on your restoration.  IMO, the JH styling is classic and elegant and they screwed it up with the bumpers, body trim and by painting the wheels black. 

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 Posted: 09-10-2011 09:36 pm
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Dakota123
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California does require front and rear bumpers if the vehicle came so equipped. But Colorado doesn't and that's where 10628 is registered. Should protect me until I send her back home.

I like the idea of mounting the bumper closer in; I had the same thought. Or maybe reducing the depth of a MKII bumper.

I'm going to leave it for the time being. Too many other things to get to, like interior, and cam drive pulleys that are suddenly looking scary-worn.

Mike

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 Posted: 09-11-2011 01:59 pm
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497
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can you post a picture of the closer rear bumper sounds like a good option.

Brett

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 Posted: 09-14-2011 03:18 am
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Tim Murphy
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Here is a view from under the car looking up at bumper mounting bracket:

Attachment: Under car looking upJ1.jpg (Downloaded 111 times)

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 Posted: 09-14-2011 03:20 am
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Tim Murphy
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Here is a view from the side. I had my wheels stripped and polished and also feel that is a big improvement.

Attachment: Side view w wheelJ2.jpg (Downloaded 123 times)

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 Posted: 09-14-2011 03:21 am
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Tim Murphy
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Here is a view looking down at the bumper from the back.

Attachment: Back view looking downJ3.jpg (Downloaded 124 times)

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 Posted: 09-14-2011 12:43 pm
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497
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Thanks for the photo's Tim I must say it looks very clean and appropriate. The factory probably had it out further than necassary to cover slight impacts but your version is the way I'l be going.

Brett

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 Posted: 09-14-2011 01:52 pm
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Dakota123
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That looks great! Do you happen to have a rear 3/4 or straight on view?

Mike

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 Posted: 10-03-2011 03:51 am
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Dakota123
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San Diego British car day today. Fun day, perfect weather.

Four Jensen Healeys and two Interceptors:


The black one won best-in-class. All-original, including very good paint.

Last edited on 10-04-2011 06:33 am by Dakota123

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 Posted: 08-26-2013 02:48 pm
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Dakota123
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10628 will be getting a 2.2L w/ flowed head, 10.5:1 pistons, lighter rods, center-doweled bearing ladder, steel flywheel, W58 trans, ARP rod and head fasteners, and Megasquirt (using some fairly well-worn Dellortos as throttle bodies).



I think pasta would hold studs better than the aluminum used in 907s.  Strangely, only one cam carrier stud stripped during the shimming process (and the PO had Helicoiled one), but then after sitting for several months before finally installing the carriers (as in, for the friggin' last time), four more stripped.  Thanks To Jensen Healey, Super Mod, for mentioning in a post that it's wise to have a Helicoil set on hand.  Or two.



VR bracket is actually for a Mitsu Starion -- an ebay seller has them listed for $20 or so.  A new hole, and a small bracket left over from my A6 2.7T turbo upgrade job (as in, where the hell does THIS go??  Oh well, I'm sure it will be fine without it...) and we have a suitably rigid mount that works with a Mk I front cover.  The 36 -1 wheel is from a Ford Taurus; thanks to Steve D. for the suggestion.  His write-up is comprehensive and useful. I'm hoping to have this all timed so I can drop it in when the weather turns too cold for top-down driving, but not typical mid-winter Colorado cold...

Last edited on 08-26-2013 02:49 pm by Dakota123

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 Posted: 08-27-2013 05:36 am
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Jensen Healey
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Wow! Beautiful work! Which cams are you using? What brake and suspension mods are you doing to handle the increase in power?

When shimming the cams, take two and call me in the morning.


Kurt













































































































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 Posted: 08-27-2013 06:53 am
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subwoofer
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Dakota123 wrote:
Megasquirt (using some fairly well-worn Dellortos as throttle bodies).


Will you be using the "TB"s dry and have a visible fuel rail, or will you make it a true stealth installation? I'd love to see pictures once it is done.

BTW: You do not say which MS version you are planning to use, but I would much recommend forking out the extra few hundred $s for an MS3+MS3X. That firmware is evolving at breakneck speed at the moment, and does everything you need at the moment. It gets easier to tune for every new version.

Probably needless to say, but no matter which MS you go for, run the MSExtra firmware and frequent the msextra.com message board. Also, buy the full license for both TunerStudio and MegaLogViewer. You will need both at some time.

Also: get one of jbperf's VR conditioner boards, the main board conditioner circuit is c¤%& and causing trouble no end. If you remove questions about EDIS and the VR circuits, you remove half the posts on the msextra.com forum... :-)

I am at the bleeding edge of that firmware right now, running experimental MAF code. Sort of fun to do, but maybe not a recommended course of action unless you enjoy it.

--
Joachim

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 Posted: 08-27-2013 03:08 pm
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Dakota123
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104/107 cams.  I picked the head up off of ebay -- it was advertised as a "Skip Brown clone", and it looks to have been properly ported, i.e. in the right places and with the right geometry.  The valves are slightly oversize.  Intakes are 1.425".  Hopefully the combo will work well. 

So far I've taken the brakes half way.  16P (vs. 14) calipers and a larger booster.  My M/C has started leaking so I'm contemplating what to do next.  Probably a larger piston size.  With the larger booster the increased pedal effort should be acceptable.  At some point I really want to go to a big brake setup and disks in the rear.  But then, I also want to convert my A6 to a manual transmission.  So yeah. Suspension has front and rear bars and Superpros in the back.  When I pull the front subframe to change the engine and trans I'll do the front bushings.  Undecided on dampers.  I like the adjustability of Spax and AVO but the quality scares me (and I'm just not familiar with AVO).  I'm also considering Greg's Bilsteins.

I think I'll use the Dells dry.  Stealth is good but on balance I think a conventional setup is best for me.  I mean, I already have a saw wheel hanging off the front so stealth is a bit out the window.

Thanks for the MS tips. Very useful info!  I polished the trigger wheel serrations - -I had read that roughness or scratches can cause problems.  Good to know that there may be more around the corner.  I'm planning to run a MAF so interesting to know that the code is may not be quite there yet.  I've tuned my A6 to 365 HP (thanks to the very intelligent folks on http://www.nefmoto.com   ) so yes, I do enjoy that part of it.  As long as it is physically possible to make it work, anyway.

Last edited on 08-27-2013 04:39 pm by Dakota123

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 Posted: 08-27-2013 05:38 pm
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subwoofer
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Since you are planning on running MAF (at some point), you really should get an MS3 - the code being worked on now is MS3 only and may not be backported to MS2. The MAF code in pre1.3a7 (the latest officially available firmware) is miles better than anything that came before it, but it still struggles with the pulsatile MAF signal a normally aspirated '4 makes at WOT at low revs. But there are ways around the problem, my car is quite smooth by now - the solution may just not be obvious at first.

Have a look here: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=125&t=50605
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Joachim

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 Posted: 08-27-2013 06:07 pm
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Dakota123
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subwoofer wrote: Have a look here: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=125&t=50605
Bookmarked, many thanks!

Mike

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 Posted: 09-11-2013 06:52 pm
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Dakota123
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I've about given up looking for an Esprit, Excel or Eclat air box. Thinking about a Pipercross. They make a deep variety which should work well with velocity stacks of decent length. Looks like it will mate well to a MAF as well.

Picked up 32 lb (at 2.5 bar) EV6 Roush Ford Raptor take-offs for $50 for 8. They are 'medium' height rather than 'shorts' which I would have preferred but can't beat the price, and the flow rate (at 3 or 4 bar) is in the sweet spot for 200-225 HP which is what I'm hoping for(sea level). Fuel pressure regulator body is from Radium Engineering, takes a standard Volkswagen/Audi pressure regulator. Very cool product, beautifully made.

Getting closer...

Last edited on 09-11-2013 07:00 pm by Dakota123

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 Posted: 01-19-2017 02:51 am
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dbeliveau74
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Another option would to use 71 Camaro RS front bumpers and trim the corners so they lay flat against the back.  the lights are after market items available from a Kit car parts finisher solutions dealer. You can find them here: http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/electrical-lighting

Attachment: 1973-jensen-healey-fwrraritl (600 x 337).jpg (Downloaded 26 times)

Last edited on 01-19-2017 02:59 am by dbeliveau74

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 Posted: 01-19-2017 03:00 am
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dbeliveau74
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Front view My concept strictly photo shopped

Attachment: 18rhb7x8rcjpwjpgdaytonafrtgrn (600 x 421).jpg (Downloaded 25 times)

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