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| Removal of instrument panel | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 04-21-2010 09:38 pm |
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1st Post |
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mcguan.2 Member
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Recently my tachometer stopped working in my '73 mkI. Reading a bunch of stuff on the forum, I decided that I might want to pull the intrument panel and check for loose connections in the back. From what I've read, and from removing my panel on a parts mkII that I have, I know about the corroded center post, but the mkI doesn't seem to have the two screws on either end of the panel that (theoretically) hold it in place. Is there a trick to getting the panel off, or do I just have to pry around it with a butter knife? Is there a better way? Maybe I'm missing something else that I should check first? Is there anything else on that fuse for the tach that might also not be working that I'm overlooking? I have so many intermittantly working things on the car that it's hard to keep them all straight, but the tach stopped working about a month ago and hasn't shown signs of flickering back to life like a lot of other stuff. BTW, all other instruments in the panel (temp, voltage, fuel, speedo) work.
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| Posted: 04-22-2010 01:15 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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Your car is 37 years old and during that time the wire contacts have become less than conductive, you need to clean everything you can reach and then some, grounds as well. Tip for cleaning, get some phosphoric acid, Auto paint supply shops have it, they usually call it metal etch, dip your male and then female connectors in it and it makes them like new, make sure after you dip them in the acid you them dip in water to rinse it off, and ideally blow them dry with air. Also won't hurt to put a dab of dialectic grease on the connections as well. As for pulling the pod :-) two screws and shaft, if you can reach around and get some oil on the shaft it might go better, also some PO have been known to glue the pod around the edge. Brett
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| Posted: 04-22-2010 08:41 pm |
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3rd Post |
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subwoofer Member
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Cheapest source of phosphoric acid: your fridge. Coca Cola is full of it! -- Joachim
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| Posted: 04-22-2010 09:33 pm |
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4th Post |
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mcguan.2 Member
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Thanks for the help, fellas. I'll get started on cleaning the connections right away.
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| Posted: 04-25-2010 04:01 pm |
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5th Post |
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Joel Member
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McGuan: I always found that a large hammer and a cold chisel worked wonders. If that doesn't work, I can lend you my air hammer. A piece of sandpaper goes a long way when you're cleaning up electrical contacts...
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| Posted: 04-25-2010 06:51 pm |
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6th Post |
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subwoofer Member
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 wrote:As for pulling the pod :-) two screws and shaft, if you can reach around and get some oil on the shaft it might go better, also some PO have been known to glue the pod around the edge. I found that a spray of WD40 on the shaft in it self wasn't sufficient, but a crowbar was. I used the lower column brackets for leverage, and simply pushed on the end of the rod. Easy as pie! -- Joachim
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| Posted: 04-26-2010 03:15 am |
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7th Post |
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mcguan.2 Member
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Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. I've installed a new tach off my parts car, cleaned the connections, etc, and the tach works fine, but in order to get the panel out far enough to do so, I had to pull the cable off the back of the speedo. Now the speedometer doesn't work. I pulled it back off and upon inspection, it appears that the tail end of the cable is both threaded and squared off. Is there some way that I can determine that I'm properly seating it? It seems I didn't do that the first time around. Also, the threads at the end appear worn. i don't know if these have been like this due to age, or if my trips around the block with the cable not seated properly caused it. There's still threads down inside as you look down into the cable clip. Is this something I should be worried about?
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