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Engine damper  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: 03-24-2010 11:13 pm
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subwoofer
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The engine damper has had it. It has about 1/4" movement, offers no resistance to movement and makes the "squish, squish" sound when moved. What could I use for a replacement, any alternate sources? If there are other common (European) engines using the same arrangement, I'll source one locally, if not I guess I will have to call Rejen again.

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Joachim

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 Posted: 03-25-2010 01:37 pm
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Mitch Ware
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Contact Pete Bahr,

peteb01@comcast.net

He offers replacements, very nice work


Mitch - #19670


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 Posted: 03-26-2010 06:47 pm
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subwoofer
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A new damper is ordered. He had actually run out, but he found a source for another 4, which should mean that 3 more people can fix their dampers.

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Joachim

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 Posted: 10-01-2010 05:05 am
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pbahr
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Let's make that two Kits available.

There was a real rush on these items early this year and I had difficulty finding the raw dampers........

YELODOG

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 Posted: 10-01-2010 04:03 pm
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jgreen
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Hi Pete..... I have a raw dampner you can have complete with brackets

John

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 Posted: 10-01-2010 04:17 pm
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pbahr
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Hi John,

Thanks for the offer but the raw damper I use is different from the OEM item.  Check the details of the design at: http://jhppg.com/pk0104.htm and you'll see why the OEM configuration is not good and contributes to cracked fire wall.

I could use the brackets however - I'll send you a PM............

Thanks,

YELODOG

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 Posted: 10-15-2010 05:49 am
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timeforwalkies
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If you haven't parted with your damper, I sure could use one.  Mine is shot. 
By the way, if a 2.2 is done does that change the loads on the damper enough to warrant some kind of upgrade?
Thanks,
Clif

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 Posted: 10-15-2010 03:28 pm
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pbahr
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Hi Cliff,

I have the last of my inventory posted on eBay, and another JH owner also wanting one.  I need to spend a few hours on the phone to find raw dampers, and hopefully I'll find some.

Contact me via email, and we'll figure something out.

Pete

peteb01@comcast.net

Attachment: Damper Kit 009lta s.jpg (Downloaded 314 times)

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 Posted: 10-21-2010 10:48 pm
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pete heywood
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Hi from UK,

Interesting!

I guess the right hand drive cars have a different damper location. I just checked the length of the damper assembled on the car, around 5.75 ". The damper has about 0.75" travel either side of this. Seems right to me. Seems like the LHD was a cock-up!

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 Posted: 01-07-2011 03:54 am
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pbahr
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Hey Pete,

Not sure what the RHD cars have as Damper location - should be same as LHD.

I've re-checked my design calculations and measurements from 6 years ago, and just now measured an old OEM damper.  What concerned me the most was that you measured 1.50 total travel, vs. my measurement of 0.500 - that's a big difference.

What I find is:
  • Assembled length = 6.125"
  • Damper total travel = 0.500"
    • 5.875" - 6.375"
  • Damper max extension = 6.375"
I've provided at least 5 Kits to RHD cars and have had no comments about bad fitment.

Perhaps you have a configuration that is not OEM.......

YELODOG

 

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 Posted: 01-17-2011 09:26 pm
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pete heywood
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http://s987.photobucket.com/albums/ae352/cbmills/damper/

pictures of damper extended and compressed and of the installed position.

I've seen a few RHD cars and they look like my car.  Do LHD cars look similar? Does the damper look similar?

I started taking an interest in this because of a clutch judder problem.  I think I might have solved this by stiffening the gear box mount. In the UK forum somebody recommended this, if an overdrive was installed. I'll have to wait for some better weather to try it out properly.

Pete

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 Posted: 01-18-2011 04:01 am
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pbahr
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Hi Pete,

Mounting for the LHD cars is identical to your RHD photos.  All the cars were built the same except the GT, which doesn't have a damper.

Damper photos sure look like the two original dampers that I've saved.  My small body diameter is 2 1/4", and look exactly like your photos.  Yours look like travel is certainly more than 1 inch.

Couple of issues:
  • Damper is gas filled and will go to full extension when not contained - If yours is working correctly, you should be holding it in the compressed positon.
  • Your damper has much more stroke than any I've seen.
  • I've looked at 8-10 dampers and all are the same as I've described earlier - my measurements are between the center of mounting bolts.....
Either the factory changed the design at some point, or yours is broken.  It should take 40-50lbs force to rapidly compress, or extend, the damper.........

Thanks for the good info,

Pete

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 Posted: 02-08-2011 08:41 pm
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pbahr
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Hi Pete,

Wonder of wonders.  Thanks to jgreen, I have in my hand a damper with the stroke that you described earlier.  First one that I've ever seen like this.

Seems that one of my earlier guesses was correct - the factory changed the design at some point.  The Girling part numbers, stamped in the larger diameter plastic end, are different.
  • Short stroke part:  64054600C,  GF25.     Has 1/2" stroke
  • Long stroke part: 64054600D,  CG48.      Has 1 3/8" stroke
The GF and CG numbers are probably a date code, but the C vs. D in the part number, I think, tells the tale.

Mystery solved ! ! ! !

Pete

 

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 Posted: 02-08-2011 10:41 pm
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pete heywood
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I have the choice of 2 dampers. I put the better 1 on the car.

The one not on the car has 64054600C AE25 it has the 1 3/8 stroke about. Pushing down on the bathroom scales rapidly gave up to 50lb. It is gas filled but can be made to stick.

I cannot read the part number of the one on the car.

I was interested because I was hoping it might control clutch judder. I just don't want to believe there is oil on the clutch. Or better said, I dont want to take the gearbox off and find there isnt oil on the clutch. 

Maybe a job for NEXT winter.

Pete

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 Posted: 02-09-2011 02:41 am
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pbahr
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Well, that's the second time I've been wrong.  I remember the first in 1962........... 

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 Posted: 02-09-2011 12:43 pm
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Dan (Florida)
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mine went out on 19444 a while back and I retrofitted a monoshock from a mountain bike.  I is adjustable and looked cool. I think I left it off after the last engine pull. It didnt seem to make much difference and the firewall was cracking from it.

Dan

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 Posted: 02-11-2011 02:52 am
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dwalls1
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Dan (Florida) wrote: mine went out on 19444 a while back and I retrofitted a monoshock from a mountain bike.  I is adjustable and looked cool. I think I left it off after the last engine pull. It didnt seem to make much difference and the firewall was cracking from it.

Dan
 
I noticed a considerable reduction in vibration and noise after I installed one of Pete's upgrade and repair kits on 17798. This also fixed the cracked firewall and appears to be preventing further cracking.

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 Posted: 02-11-2011 05:15 pm
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Jensen Healey
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"I just don't want to believe there is oil on the clutch. Or better said, I dont want to take the gearbox off and find there isnt oil on the clutch."

Hi Pete, To check if oil is fouling the clutch just slip the clutch under power for about 5 seconds to burn off any crud that might be in there. If the juddering stops or gets better you'll know the clutch is fouled.

This works on my truck for a day and then it's back to the judder.

Kurt

Last edited on 02-11-2011 07:28 pm by Jensen Healey

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 Posted: 05-11-2016 05:29 am
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timeforwalkies
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Not sure if this is a continuing thread but...
I checked my shock and it has a number that is different than either of the two you list:  64054600c kf38 and has a 7/8 total stroke.  This is out of our 24 Hours of Lemons race car and is not being used.  Not sure if this helps or confuses the issue. 

 

Last edited on 05-11-2016 05:36 am by timeforwalkies

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