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| replacement keyed ignition switch | Rating: 
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| Posted: 02-10-2010 05:53 pm |
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1st Post |
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Cordes Member
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The ignition switch/key on my '74 1/2 is just about failed. I'm afraid to actually remove the key as it takes about 5 minutes of playing with the key and switch to be able to turn the cylinder. I'm looking to replace the switch/cylinder/key but there are no NOS ignition switches available from JH/Delta. Has anyone ever successfully cross referenced the ignition switch to another British roadster of the era. These assemblies are readily available from Moss, TRF, and Victoria British for the Triumph, MG and Jaguar. I'm making the mental jump that since the ignition is electrical maybe it was a common part supplied by Lucas??? Any other words of wisdom on replacing the key/ignition would also be appreciated thanks Ed
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| Posted: 02-10-2010 07:46 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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Have you tried removing the assembly and taking it to a lock smith, if it's a tumbler issue they should be able to help. Not sure about a swap to another make, but bruce Madden in Atlanta probably has some kicking about that he would sell you, 404-261-2552. Good luck. Brett
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| Posted: 02-14-2010 02:21 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Judson Manning Member 
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They are easy enough to replace. Bruce Madden in Atlanta, GA has a large stock of them.
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| Posted: 07-14-2016 05:06 am |
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4th Post |
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Dick Fickey Member
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How do you remove the ignition switch?
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| Posted: 07-14-2016 12:47 pm |
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5th Post |
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Screenplay Member
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I'llI assume we're talking about the lock mechanism (the part with the key.) Drop the steering column (four bolts as I recall). The lock is clamped to the steering column with two breakaway bolts. Drill the heads off of them and the switch comes right off. Install the new switch with appropriately sized allen head bolts and reinstall the column. I just did the same thing a few weeks ago - Bruce madden is still the guy to see for used ignition lock mechanisms. He's posted his contact info here previously: RedRacerbm@gmail.com or call at 404-261-2552. As I recall it was about $65 plus shipping. Bruce a great guy to talk to - a wealth of info and willing to share. Clinton Last edited on 07-14-2016 12:48 pm by Screenplay |
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| Posted: 07-14-2016 04:22 pm |
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6th Post |
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Dick Fickey Member
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Thanks for the reply. I have the lock mechanism off. Is there any way to get the cylinder out to take to a lock smith? I will give Bruce a call.
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| Posted: 07-15-2016 04:15 am |
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7th Post |
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dwalls1 Member
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You can get the breakaway bolts if your concerned about security or originality. The ones for the TR7-8 are the same.
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| Posted: 02-23-2023 05:23 pm |
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8th Post |
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Darth V8R Member 
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Lads: I have emailed Bruce to see if he is still in the business. In the meantime I have been investigating substitutes, and the Rover Defender switch/lock looks to be usable albeit slightly longer. It is still in production it seems. Has anyone else come up with a substitute, and if so what is it? Here is the substitute I have identified, but not tried installing: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LR077439P Vance Attachment: Capture.JPG (Downloaded 41 times) Last edited on 02-23-2023 05:26 pm by Darth V8R |
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| Posted: 02-23-2023 09:04 pm |
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9th Post |
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redracer Member
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This is somewhat strange. as today I also received a request from VANCE for a the lock!! Brett is correct if only the key part is at fault. To remove it, lower the column(there are 2 mounting bolts with large spacers). Then use an easy-out to remove the 2 break-off bolts that hold the 2 halves of the lock together(5/16" allen bolts are a perfect replacement). On the back of the half that has the tumbler, you will notice a ??5/32"?? pin that holds it in place. Drill this out and the tumbler will come out. You may wish to take it to a locksmith first to see if only a better key needs to be made. best wishes, bruce
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| Posted: 02-24-2023 04:09 pm |
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10th Post |
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noomg Member
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Vance, I'd go with the Bruce option, you're getting the exact part and they don't fail very often. If you're going for a new part I'd avoid the one shown in your picture. Rimmers lists it as "aftermarket" which in my experience usually means "made in China". The Rover part looks like it may be the closest if not the same it looks like it's got a two cut key which can only be inserted one way but I can't tell from the picture if it's got the push button. Bruce, Do you know if the original J/H keys came with the black plastic handles. That's what my TR7 originally came with. Just a thought, this thread was started by Ed who posted exactly one time on this board 13 years ago. I wonder if he ever solved his problem or for that matter still has the car.
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| Posted: 02-24-2023 04:36 pm |
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11th Post |
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redracer Member
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Yes; the original ignition key did come with the black plastic on it(but not the other key which does the trunk, glove box and doors). There are nine brass pins in the ignition lock and only 5 in the other ones. Back in the late '79s. I became a CURTIS distributor who had steel blans for both. It is fairly easy to remove whatever tumbler and use small files to notch the blank properly. keep us posted as to what you do,bruce
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| Posted: 03-01-2023 11:28 pm |
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12th Post |
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Darth V8R Member
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Just wanted to close the loop on my original query. I took the lock to a locksmith, he got it working and cut two new keys (the keys I had were for the trunk - DOH!) for $20. A screaming deal if there ever was one. Precision Locksmith in Beaverton, OR. Recommended.
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