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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | Page:   1 2 |
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| Brake light on after hose replacement | Rating: 
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| Posted: 06-02-2008 08:35 pm |
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21st Post |
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edward_davis Member 
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The reservoir is supposed to serve both circuits, so you just have to fill it full to the top. In the original TR application, the MC is angled so that the top of the reservoir is level, and that's why it looks so goofy in the JH. I've only seen one JH with the original MC, out of the ~30 or so that I've seen, so this TR unit must work fine. I haven't had any problems with mine since installation. IIRC, the rear reservoir feeds the front brakes, so it has to be larger to accomodate the greater change in volume as the disc pads wear and the caliper pistons move to accomodate them. The pistons in the drums are much smaller diameter, so they won't need as much fluid when they auto-adjust. And if you have the manual adjust drums, they don't use any fluid, since the adjustment is made on the other side from the pistons. That's why the reservoirs are so different in size, I think. To get the PDWA to shut off, you have to have one person release the bleeder while another applies firm pressure to the pedal. When the light goes off, the pedal pusher must shout to the bleeder operator to close the screw, lest the switch go too far and illuminate the bulb again. In an ideal world, the PDWA would have a built-in return spring, so it would only go off while there was currently a pressure differential. Not so: it simply records that there was a difference. By opening the bleeder screw and applying pressure, you're trying to shuttle the little switch back to the middle, null, setting. I rebuilt my PDWA, you know, and it immediately started leaking out the electrical connector at the top. So I did like Mark suggested so long ago, and I plugged it up with an appropriate bolt. Now it doesn't leak and the light doesn't go off, either. Eventually I'm going to do like Judson (I think?) suggested, and get the inside of the thing plugged up, so fluid can't leak across in the event of a failure. I might even make all new stainless brake lines and get rid of the PDWA entirely.
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| Posted: 06-04-2008 01:20 am |
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22nd Post |
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LambandAndy Member 
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I managed to reset mine by removing the switch and using something like a ball end allen wrench (don't remember exactly) in the indent in the piston, pull it back to center. Andy
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| Posted: 06-04-2008 03:23 pm |
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23rd Post |
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Jay Member 
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Andy, Something like that is what I thought may be worth a try. I was hoping someone may have already tried this. Thanks for the tip. With the switch removed I should be able to see which way the piston needs to move rather than guessing. I'll give that a try. Jay UPDATE: Andy, My PDWA must be different than yours. When I remove the switch, all that is revealed is a small steel ball that now appears to be in the up position to depress the switch plunger. The mechanism to move the ball (a groove or taper in the pistons) is not revealed. It appears that I will need to resort to the bleeding procedure to reset my switch. It is interesting to note that the ground path to the switch plunger is by way of a small spiral spring on the tip of the switch plunger. After tweeking this spring, I find that the tail of the spring needs to be positioned so that it contacts the ID of the threaded switch bore. Upon removal of the switch the spring got a little distorted. I removed the switch, and when it looked like I wouldn't be able to reset the switch by going this route, I screwed the switch back in and reconnected the wire. My warning light was now off! I wondered how the switch could reset itself, but when I investigated futher I realized that it didn't. It just was not getting grounded through the little spring. That is when I deflected the tail of the spring outward so it would contact the bore. To complete the ground circuit the spring needs to contact the housing and the switch plunger nedds to be depressed. I found the following reference from the old board to be helpful. Jay http://www.jensenhealey.com/msgboard.mv?parm_func=showmsg+parm_msgnum=1008604 Last edited on 06-05-2008 01:24 pm by Jay |
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