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cams, valve timing and ignition timing  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: 05-01-2016 01:16 pm
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westsideclay
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What do you need for them I'm in Huntington Beach. The car us in Winchester at my brother's house

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 01:40 pm
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subwoofer
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Your cams must be WAY off!!! 5 degrees difference in cam timing does not change from no compression to normal compression readings.

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 02:01 pm
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westsideclay
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The cams line up with the correct firing order, everything is where it is supposed to be which is why I cant figure this out

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 02:15 pm
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497
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my 2 cents.
Double check every thing, set the crank at TDC pull the #1 plug and make sure the piston is at the top as well. next check to make sure the cams are aligned, 110 or 115 won't make any difference on compression. Next the distributor, make sure the rotor is pointing to the #1 position on the cap and the wire actually is going to the #1 plug, also make sure the distributor is firmly seated in the housing. Do this before you even think of touching the carbs, the strombergs are the last thing you want to mess with right now, they are a good dependable carb and easy to work with, but not as refined as Dell's. Stick to the basic's

Brett

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 02:16 pm
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subwoofer
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And you have the IN mark facing you on the intake and EX on the exhaust? The sprockets flip over depending on which side of the head.

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 02:19 pm
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subwoofer
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Please post a picture of the sprockets from the front with crank at TDC.

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 02:20 pm
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westsideclay
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Yes and the marks line up, there are no dots on the cam wheels as the have probably been cleaned repeatedly and been erased over time, but there are timing marks in the cam wheel which are aligned and correspond with the firing order. There has been no contact betweenthe valves and pistons

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 02:34 pm
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subwoofer
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There are one or more notches on the rim, and there should be a marking stamped in. Changing from one timing to the other includes flipping the sprocket over.

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 02:58 pm
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westsideclay
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I didn't have to flip the sprocket over to change the timing the marks are as your picture shows on both sprockets

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 03:02 pm
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subwoofer
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Please note that one mark is "in", the other is "ex". You HAVE to flip they, otherwise they are three teeth off!

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 05:41 pm
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westsideclay
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They are lined up intake to exhaust 115 to 115

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 05:42 pm
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westsideclay
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This is the part that is baffling because I have done this several time before and never had anything like this happen

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 06:12 pm
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subwoofer
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Please get yourself a basic understanding of what you are doing before going any further. Moving the cams three teeth does not constitute a 5 crankshaft degree change in timing, it is more like 60 degrees. You are lucky if valves and pistons haven't kissed.

Before going any further you have to make 100% certain that the cam timing is correct, and that includes having the IN and EX marks visible on the correct sprockets for the actual marks you are about to line up.

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 06:17 pm
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westsideclay
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I have done all this the car will run but not well. When the cam covers are removed and the engine is at #1TDC. the cam shafts align correctly to correspond the firing order. When the engine is rotated through by hand everything goes through the cycle as it is supposed to . There hasn't been any contact between the valves and the pistons

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 06:18 pm
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westsideclay
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I really appreciate your help on this

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 06:20 pm
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westsideclay
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Thanks Brett I've done all of the above and have not achieved the result I expected

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 06:20 pm
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subwoofer
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But you still haven't answered the fundamental question, are you using the correct marks? Don't ASSUME anything, VERIFY.

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 06:22 pm
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westsideclay
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Yes those are the only marks on the camwheels and the camshafts are positioned correctly

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 06:38 pm
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subwoofer
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You can't tell if cam timing is off by looking at the cams, the changes required to make it run like a bucket of excrement are far too small.

You would probably want to run 110/110 timing instead of 115/115, but that would require the correct markings. You could of course make those marks yourself if you only have 115 marks. I could send you the other side of the sprockets as well.

Once properly timed, ignition is next. Set according to instructions, I think vacuum lines should be disconnected for this, while at it check the vacuum capsule for leaks.

Vacuum leaks easily give a 2k idle, I know from experience.

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 06:47 pm
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westsideclay
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That was my original suspicion because I had a high idle when my brake booster was shot . The spitting back through the carbs is what bothers me the most

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