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 Posted: 03-17-2009 04:02 am
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dwalls1
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Got the distributor off this evening. Not as difficult as I thought it would be, but it's not back on yet either. Performance had been deteriorating over the last 600 miles or so. The rubbing block on the points was worn down to where the points were hardly opening at all and I suspect were not opening for all cylinders. I have scanned all the posts for ignition and saw one reference to lubricating the points cam, but nothing specific as to how or what to use. I was surprised that there was no wick like I have seen on other systems to apply a few drops of oil. Can anyone enlighten me? Will be ordering new points and condensor and new O ring.  I also discovered that the ignition timing was way retarded, any speculation as to damage that may have occured? Lastly, can I do away with the vacuum retard? I doubt that mine is working anyway and it is such a nuisance to get the vacuum line hooked to it. Thanks in advance for all comments, solutions, answers or encouragement.

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 Posted: 03-17-2009 12:56 pm
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Jensenman
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I use dielectric silicone grease, it lasts a lot longer than oil.

The vacuum capsule is one of two types: it either advances the ignition timing when you open the throttle, this type works off of 'ported' vacuum meaning there's no vacuum applied at idle but as you open the throttle the advance unit now gets vacuum. This type will have a hose going to the carburetor in the area of the throttle plate.

Or there's the 'retard' type, this one has vacuum at idle and retards the ignition timing. When the throttle is opened, the vacuum drops and a spring inside the unit now advances the ignition timing. This type will have the hose connected directly to the intake manifold.

Either one can be bypassed but now you have to set your ignition timing differently: the engine has to be run at ~2500 RPM and the ignition timing set at the full advance point. I'd have to go back and look at my manual, but I believe that's 32 deg BTDC. This means the ignition timing at idle will be advanced compared to the stock setting.

EDIT: Here's how to install the distributor holddown to make life a lot easier. I learned this from messing with MGBs which have the dizzy clamp in a terrible spot (although nowhere near as bad as the J-H's): while you have the dizzy out, install the clamp on the dizzy and experiment with the clamp bolt torque until you can turn the distributor in the clamp with medium effort. It has to be tight enough that the dizzy can't be easily removed from the clamp, yet it can be rotated; as noted this takes some experimenting. Once it's back in the engine use the stud/nut which points toward the rear of the engine to hold the dizzy in place. Now you can turn the dizzy to set the ignition timing without having to loosen/tighten the bolt. In the future if you have to remove the dizzy, take the nut off of the stud and leave the clamp attached to the dizzy. This makes the routine points swap a lot easier! Or you could just install an electronic ignition conversion so you don't have to take it back out for a LONG time. 

 

Last edited on 03-17-2009 04:01 pm by Jensenman

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 Posted: 03-18-2009 03:20 am
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dwalls1
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Thank You so much for your helpful response. I have lots of the silicone grease. I suspect I should use it sparingly as its getting on the points would be a problem.

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 Posted: 03-18-2009 06:13 pm
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Jensenman
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It doesn't take much. A small blob (maybe the size of a match head) behind the points rubbing block will go a long way.

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