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Special tool VR2026  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: 03-01-2009 10:05 pm
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subwoofer
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Total cost should be $10-20. I bought the biggest socket at Biltema (Scandinavian equivalent of Halford's) since I had a feeling I would have to modify it.

Needed parts:
M12 threaded rod, cheap steel (not stainless) is OK
M12 nuts
Large washers, I used 50x50x5mm. Thickness is important, 3mm (1/8") WILL bend.
46mm socket as receiver, you will have to grind it a bit to clear the diff bell for the right hand bushing.
Socket for a driver, I used 27mm for the first bit, then 25mm for getting the bushing all the way through the hole. Just make sure the socket you use does not expand the bushing, the way most sockets are made this means it will not pass through the hole.

With a bit of modification to the largest socket, this tool should also work fine as VR2023. I'll post a picture once I have made it.

--
Joachim

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 Posted: 03-02-2009 02:24 am
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Jim Ketcham
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For those without a shop manual or not wishing to look it up, VR2023 is a "suspension arm bush remover an installer"

Jim

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 Posted: 03-06-2009 09:37 pm
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subwoofer
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Modifying it to double as VR2023 worked out nicely. A 46 mm socket is actually a bit small, so the bushings will get stuck in the socket when pressing them out, but that can be cured by a bit of Dremel work.


The result of 5 minutes with an angle grinder

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Joachim

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 Posted: 03-07-2009 02:13 am
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Jensen Healey
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I used a 4" length of 2" pipe and a cap in which I drilled a 5/8" hole and some 5/8" all thread with nuts and washers. Works the same. Availabel at any hardware store.

Kurt

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 Posted: 03-07-2009 02:41 pm
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Jensenman
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Yessir, nothing like homemade tools!

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 Posted: 03-07-2009 02:43 pm
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subwoofer
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:-)

Planning a press tool for getting that d#¤%&¤ bolt from the front lower arm too. If the impact driver doesn't free it, I'll have to get the welder out.

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Joachim

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 Posted: 03-07-2009 10:23 pm
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Jensenman
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Are you referring to the lower inner pivot bolt? If it's stuck (seized or rusted) in the bushing sleeve then trying to press it out will do more harm than good, it'll damage the crossmember.

This method saved a motorcycle frame for me once. The swingarm bolt was seized inside the swingarm bearing spacer 'sleeve' and also inside the engine's rear mount. It's slow and tedious but it saves expensive and sometimes irreplaceable parts.

Mark the center of the bolt head as exactly as possible. Grind the threaded end flat and mark it in the center as well. Use a center punch to mark the center point with a dimple.

Now drill at the center starting with a 1/8" (3mm) bit (the dimple keeps the bit from 'walking') and keep redrilling with successively larger bits until the head comes off of the bolt. Don't go any larger than 7/16" (11 mm) as that's the bolt hole diameter in the crossmember. Do the same on the other end, then slide the control arm out of the crossmember. Now you can remove the bushing by burning out the rubber or by 'walking' a sharp 3/16" drill bit around the rubber. Use a hacksaw to *carefully* split the outer sleeve and it will come right out.

Hint: when you put everything back together, use copper based anti seize compound (not the silver colored stuff and definitely not grease) inside all of the bushing sleeves. That way the sleeve won't seize to the bolt and can be removed easily in the future. The upper bolt has been known to seize inside the crossmember tube so I'd antiseize that as well.

 

Last edited on 03-07-2009 10:26 pm by Jensenman

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 Posted: 03-08-2009 08:31 am
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subwoofer
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That's the one...

I was thinking that using a 11/16 socket as a receiver for the bolt head, and devising a form of caliper press, I should be able to press it out without deforming the crossmember. First attempt will still be the impact wrench, but I didn't feel well yesterday, so I stayed in bed rather than in the garage.

And of course, I am using copper anti-seize when putting things back together.

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Joachim

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