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18711 "Miss Jensen"  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: 07-31-2015 05:22 pm
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subwoofer
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My prayers may have been answered!

https://www.facebook.com/classicfordmag/posts/927284433971729
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WD8_4xhgOg&list=UUJfLna8jgGWD2466yARk8DA

Northampton Motorsport has created the DCOi carb throttle body, making it appear that a set of DCOEs are installed, completely hiding the TPS and injectors inside. Somewhat pricy though, ~£750 each...

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Joachim

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 Posted: 04-24-2016 06:27 pm
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subwoofer
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Getting back on track...

The handbrake has been out of commission since converted the rear brakes, and I wasn't able to route the cables like HiSpec had intended, no matter what I did I ran into trouble with the rear springs. So I had to get creative, great thanks to Gordon for inspiration. I was able to repurpose the original JH parts without modifying them, that way it is a straight forward job to convert back to the original brakes in case the MOT goes sour (because of the lack of paperwork on the mods).


Had to make an M8 bolt with some M6 threads on it


... to be able to mount M6 threaded rod in an M8 clevis


Made an adapter to add to the end of the original handbrake wire, return spring clearly visible


And the other side

Seems to be working, but I still need to tighten it slightly, I think. The handbrake will never be one for handbrake turns anyway, small pads makes it a parking mechanism only.

Shakedown trip was almost uneventful - once I got out on the road. The capillary tube for the oil pressure gauge had dislodged itself, backing out of the garage I lost about 1/3 of a litre of oil. Good thing I saw the stripe of oil as I backed out!

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Joachim

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 Posted: 05-21-2016 11:20 am
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subwoofer
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I may finally have cured the f¤%&ing misfire problem, and while I was at it I replaced the battery with a fresh 72Ah silver/calsium battery. Naturally, no current standard battery size is a correct fit and the closest I found to the one already installed wouldn't sit right either. No surprises there, then...

I had to raise the battery platform about 1/2" to get a good foundation for the new battery. Thought long and hard on it, then remembered that plastic cutting boards are cheap and easily available. Enter MacGyver mode:





The new battery is a bit taller than the old one, so I was a bit worried the connections might hit the bonnet, so I did a clearance check with the cardboard box the rotor came in. No problems at all, the box wasn't crushed at all.



It only took 3 years to figure out the cause of the misfire, the fix was £15 delivered at my doorstep.

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Joachim

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 Posted: 05-21-2016 02:18 pm
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497
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Joachim, just replaced my battery and here in the US the 56 frame works well in a JH. Thanks for the tip on the riveted rotor, I had one as a spare but will now toss.
Brett

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 Posted: 05-21-2016 07:28 pm
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gmgiltd
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I seem to remember that the first few rotors in my car also had a sprung counterweight which was the rev limiter - I haven't seen them for some time. The effect was quite dramatic and certainly discouraged venturing too close to the redline.
CTI is a major improvement.
Gordon

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 Posted: 05-21-2016 07:28 pm
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gmgiltd
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Last edited on 05-21-2016 07:30 pm by gmgiltd

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 Posted: 06-16-2016 12:20 pm
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subwoofer
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MOT done, good for another two years. :-)

Need to reset the idle mix and air bleeds, everything is way out of wack after messing about trying to figure out the misfire. I also put in too much toe-in to try to cure a slight left-or-right-depending-on-the-crown-of-the-road problem, so will have to take some back out. Other than that, no complaints from the inspector, neither about the new brakes or the Revolution wheels.

Pheew...

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Joachim

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 Posted: 07-23-2016 09:37 pm
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Tom Thomson
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Joachim
  The project looks great!  You mentioned doing a bit of work on the brakes and that reminded me of the time my daughter-in-law came back (in 16036) with great clouds of smoke billowing from the rear wheel wells.  Turns out that the flex line was swelled internally (outside looked good) so that pedal pressure would force fluid thru but the return springs would not, thus keeping the shoes applied.  Replacing the line fixed the problem.
                    Tom Thomson

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