Home 
> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Cooling > Center Console Radiating Heat

 Moderated by: Greg Fletcher  
AuthorPost
dancarlsen
Member
 

Joined: 05-09-2008
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
Posts: 7
Status: 
Offline
Maybe this is a stupid question and the answer will be "Welcome to driving Jensen Healeys!" but I'll give it a go anyway. I have my first JH for a couple months now and it seems like the air vents and the center console are just constantly throwing off a lot of heat. I don't even turn on the fan because it just blows hot air. The sleeves on the shifter and emergency brake also blow out heat. This would be a great car in the winter - i would never get cold. Unfortunately this is Minnesota so I will NEVER drive it then. Is this just something that comes with the territory or a symptom of something else?

Thanks, Dan in Minneapolis

JodyFKerr
Member


Joined: 02-21-2008
Location: Tempe, Arizona USA
Posts: 48
Status: 
Offline
Dan,

I'm going to take a wild guess and say that you've got one of the earlier JH's that don't have the heater vacuum switch or you do have one and it's broken. In addition, it sounds like the heater vents are semi-open all the time. Most likely because the adding that seals them is worn out.

Now, the nice thing is that this is all fixable. Check under the hood for the heater valve to see if you have one and get back to us.

Also, worst case scenario you can undo the heater pipes and insert a bypass so that coolant doesn't go througthe heater core.

dancarlsen
Member
 

Joined: 05-09-2008
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
Posts: 7
Status: 
Offline
JodyFKerr wrote: Dan,

I'm going to take a wild guess and say that you've got one of the earlier JH's that don't have the heater vacuum switch or you do have one and it's broken. In addition, it sounds like the heater vents are semi-open all the time. Most likely because the adding that seals them is worn out.

Now, the nice thing is that this is all fixable. Check under the hood for the heater valve to see if you have one and get back to us.

Also, worst case scenario you can undo the heater pipes and insert a bypass so that coolant doesn't go througthe heater core.

It's a 1974 1/2 - don't know if that's what you mean by "earlier JH's" or not. The rest of your suggestions I will (hopefully) check out this weekend. Thanks, Dan

Jensen Healey
Super Moderator


Joined: 03-11-2005
Location: San Anselmo, California USA
Posts: 983
Status: 
Offline
You seem to have two issues.

Heater won't shut off: Do what Jody said. Check the rubber seal at the firewall to hood area around the air intake screen. Last resort: remove the heater hoses and connect them together. Enjoy the rest of the summer.

Hot shifting: There is a ring that is attached with sheetmetal screws that secures an inner boot for the shift lever. Remove the shifter console to find it. I used the corner of a Ziplock bag leaving enough slack so as not to limit the shifter travel. Attach with a rubber band to the shifter. This will last about 5000 miles. Cover the tunnel with some kind of insulation, even carpet padding is better than nothing. JC Whitney has a suitable bulk product.

Kurt

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10101/s-10101/p-100000328424/mediaCode-ZX/appId-100000328424/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000328424

 

JodyFKerr
Member


Joined: 02-21-2008
Location: Tempe, Arizona USA
Posts: 48
Status: 
Offline
Dan,

Then you've got one of the cars that didn't come with the inline switch.

Considering how fast the MN summer dissapears I suggest doing the bypass for now so that you'll be able to enjoy your summer.

And you can add the following to your winter to-do list:

http://www.theymightberacing.com/Projects/FrameOff/JH74G/HeaterAssemblyRestoration.aspx

 

Jody

John Finch
Member
 

Joined: 08-01-2005
Location: Minneapolis MN
Posts: 122
Status: 
Offline
You could also install a valve in the supply side heater hose located in the engine compartment if there is room. When closed this will prevent hot coolant from reaching your heater core thereby preventing heat transfer. You can easily open it up to drive in the spring/fall as required. The PO of 18309 installed one in the downstream return hose, replacing the stock vaccum valve. This works great for me. I am also in Mpls and have driven into Nov as long as there is no snow/salt etc. Just another option.  Best of luck

John

12371
Member
 

Joined: 09-22-2006
Location:  
Posts: 17
Status: 
Offline
Dan;

I had the same problem with heat-a lot of it-coming out of the console.  The company I work for makes industrial generator & kitchen exhaust so I got a hold of a 1" ceramic blanket and cut it to the profile of the bottom of the console and viola, my right shirt sleeve doesn't catch fire any more.

If you want to go to that extreme any commercial kitchen sheet metal contractor has it.  It is basically what they use to wrap grease ducts above kitchen hoods.  There are 3 major brands, 3M, Thermal Ceramics, and Unifrax.

I'm sure that there are many things you could use but if you want to go to the effort, this stuff really works.

George 12371



UltraBB 1.172 Copyright © 2007-2011 Data 1 Systems