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Help with removing 5 speed differential - please  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: 04-22-2005 07:12 pm
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JASPER
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Hey guys and gals -

I'm tearing down a 5 speed rear end and need some advice on how to remove all the pinion gears from the diff/

Brake hubs are removed, oil is drained, cover plate is off, now the fun part......

are the axle shafts pressed into place -

how on earth do I pull them out so that I can release the pinion gears ?

I'm thinking I should just wack the wheel stud end of the axle downwards to pull the shafts down and away from the diff gears ? But the inside brake drum is still in place and kind of in the way preventing a good straight hit ?

Is there a special slide hammer or tool I should be using to pull these axle drive shafts out or am I missing some sort of bolt /fastener which holds these guys in place ?

any good ideas would be much appreciated.

Cheers all
James
JASPER # 18149

Attachment: IMG_3404.jpg (Downloaded 113 times)

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 Posted: 04-22-2005 08:38 pm
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Mark Rosenbaum
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Haven't done it myself, nor even looked closely, but judging from the attached photo of what is supposedly a pair of JH axles, there's a bearing or seal retainer plate that uses the same holes as the brake backing plate.  If that's really true, then one would need to undo the appropriate bolts before pulling the axle.

 

Attachment: rear axle shafts.jpg (Downloaded 109 times)

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 Posted: 04-22-2005 09:38 pm
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JASPER
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Thanx mark - yes they do look like JH axle shafts -
mine is still connected looks like this -

still no luck pulling them out though -

torch and grinder standing by............

Attachment: IMG_3408.jpg (Downloaded 106 times)

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 Posted: 04-22-2005 09:39 pm
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JASPER
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Another view - everything is unbolted..........bloody things are in there pretty damn tight ! (said the actress to the bishop!)

Attachment: IMG_3409.jpg (Downloaded 105 times)

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 Posted: 04-22-2005 11:05 pm
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Dave Helmholz
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Hi James,


This is a common problem with any live axle vehicle after 30 or so years. The outer shell of the axle bearing sticks to the axle housing. DO NOT try to beat it out with a hammer, you probably won’t get it out and you might put a slight bend in the axle tube. The same goes for torching it.

The Ford and Chevy boys use a special adapter that fits on the end of a large slide hammer. Check out your local tool rental shop, they should have one.

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 Posted: 04-22-2005 11:31 pm
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Mark Rosenbaum
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From the photos, it looks to me like all the bits are loose now.  That being so, the shaft should pop right out with the first whack from a light-duty your inertia puller.  However, based on your photos, you likely have a ring of rust between the outer perimeter of the bearing and the inside of the axle housing tube.  Try some penetrating oil there, and a bit more on the internal ends where they enter the spider, and apply a modicum of brute force with the inertia puller.

If this doesn't work, the next option is to use an inertia puller using a really massive weight.  If you have to go that route, though, I suggest first pressing out those expensive JH wheel studs (ISTR that this is just possible with the axle in place) and temporarily replacing them with Grade 8 bolts.

If the outer bearing is expendable, you can sometimes break it free by applying a chisel against its outer shell and whacking it repeatedly with a BFH -- a short handled 2# or 3# sledge is about the minimum that will work.  WARNING: This is best done on the bench, as I have seen a car knocked off its jack stands by someone trying this process.

The final option is to use a torch to cut through the bearing housing, pull the shaft, then chisel out the remainder of the bearing and clean up its seat.  This is a nasty, somewhat risky job that's best done with the axle on a non-flammible bench.

Alternately, take the axle to a machine shop, pay whatever they ask, and be thankful that you aren't spending several precious free days with a hammer and chisel.  Note that you will usually be charged much more for the job if they can tell that you've already tried the torch....

Finally, when reinstalling the shaft, you may wish to use a ring of sealer on the inner part of the bearing's perimeter, and a thicker ring of anti-sieze surface toward the outer part, sufficient to fill the beveled gap between bearing and housing when things are assembled.  This can help keep the oil in, and water out, so that the next removal will be a bit less stressful.

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 Posted: 04-23-2005 12:36 am
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JASPER
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Thanx all -

I'll see if I can rent a slide hamer + adapter to get the job done -

The internal 5 speed rear end gears are sold and off to a new owner doing a 5 speed conversion and he didn't want to pay for shipping an entire rear end across the country -

can't blame him......

thus the axle shafts, allthough I'd rather keep them once removed as spares, are expendable if need be -

just goota get the things out so I can ship the rear end gears ......

ah ya just gotta love 30 year old LBC's !!!

cheers - I'll let you know how I get on - now off to KRAGEN and PEP BOYS to rent some tools .....

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 Posted: 04-23-2005 01:23 am
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JASPER
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How about a MAPP gas torch - not to cut just to really heat up the seized end (brake drum) end and then a big wack with a hammer ?

I'm thinking the heat might cause the outer axle housing to expand thus breaking the seal between the shaft and housing ?

any thoughts?

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 Posted: 04-23-2005 05:17 am
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Mark Rosenbaum
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I suppose it's worth a try especially if the axle shafts and housing are more or less expendable.  While heating, you may improve your luck at breaking things free if you first give the axle a good hefty whack with a hammer as if you were driving it INTO the housing, then try to pull it out.

If that doesn't work, apply more penetrating oil and let the thing sit overnight.  Sometimes you can get lucky that way.

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 Posted: 04-24-2005 03:07 am
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JASPER
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Well - Evan came to the rescue today with the right adapter and slide hammer -

two good pulls and out came the axle shafts -

easy with the right tools -!!

The gears came out nice and easily after all that -

thanx for all your help !

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