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Dakota123 Member
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I imagine someone out there has installed strategic stiffening to reduce cowl shake and improve handling -- any photos or descriptions to share (other than the obvious full roll cage)? Thanks! Mike |
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roverman Member
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If you feel scientific, you might do a torsional deflection test, as a baseline , before mod's begin. PITA bars,(diagonals) from front suspension/rail area, to load spreader plates, on the firewall, should help. These plates "might" be joined on the inside of firewall, with smaller diameter tubing, formed and welded to top or bottom corners, of the tunnel, to the rear kick-up area. Good Luck, roverman. |
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vnavaret Member 
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Old thread, but I wanted to post a thought. There is a steel plate behind the center stack but in front of the heater. It is a stressed member and is fastened between the cowl and drive tunnel. If you are experiencing cowl shake inspection of that member is warranted. During my restoration I repaired a fatigue crack in mine. If it had proliferated further the plate may have failed and I would have seen cowl shake. Make certain the fasteners are secure as well. If the plate is in good shape and tightly secured, I doubt there will be any cowl shake. Vance Last edited on 11-29-2025 03:31 pm by vnavaret |
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noomg Member
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Cowl shake, in a uni-body Jensen-Healey? I submit anyone who thinks they are experiencing cowl shake in their J/H has never driver an Austin-Healey or TR4 or just about anything using body on frame construction. Personally I've never experienced cowl shake in either my J/H or TR7 both uni-body cars, my Austin-Healey though is another matter. |
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vnavaret Member
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noomg wrote: Cowl shake, in a uni-body Jensen-Healey? I submit anyone who thinks they are experiencing cowl shake in their J/H has never driver an Austin-Healey or TR4 or just about anything using body on frame construction. Personally I've never experienced cowl shake in either my J/H or TR7 both uni-body cars, my Austin-Healey though is another matter. I agree that the body on frame AH is loosey goosey due to its construction. While the JH is unibody and therefore much more rigid, the absence of a steel roof does compromise its structural integrity compared to a unibody coupe. I do believe however that the steel plate behind the center stack is necessary for the best possible outcome. The TR6 used the same method in the form of an aluminum casting bolted between the cowl and the floor. And yes, compared to the older body on frame method ala AH, the JH acts like it is carved out of a solid block of steel. This does not mean that it cannot be compromised, and I was merely suggesting a place to look should one find unexpected cowl shake in their ride. But I bet you knew that, yes? Vance Last edited on 11-30-2025 05:38 pm by vnavaret |
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noomg Member
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Vance, Back in '74 my best friend bought a brand new TR6 at the time I was driving a '57 Austin-Healey (my first LBC) and while I didn't do a cowl shake comparison test the difference was noticeable, the TR6's was barely there while on the Healey you could actually see the cowl shake! When I restored my interior I of course inspected the bare cockpit, mainly looking for rust, for any possible problems. I did note this part but I thought it was just a bracket for installing interior pieces. While I'm sure it does provide some torsional rigidity it can't be that crucial since it's just a piece stamped steel held in place with sheet metal screws. If it was key to the structure I'd think it would have been more robust. |
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vnavaret Member
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noomg wrote: Vance, Mine is secured with 8 bolts (4 top and 4 bottom). I can't imagine why someone would attach it with sheet metal screws. The fact that it was secured with sheet metal screws explains the cowl shake. Someone got lazy putting it back or didn't know that it was supposed to be secured with bolts. Item 33 in the attached screen capture. Note that it is supposed to be bolted into place. Vance Attachment: Screenshot 2025-12-02 193547.png (Downloaded 6 times) Last edited on 12-03-2025 03:33 am by vnavaret |
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noomg Member
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Vance, You're right it is bolted, the sheet metal screws at the base I thought were mounting screws were actually remnants from a PO installed 4-channel stereophonic sound system. You may remember they were all they rage in the mid '70s. The PO had destroyed the console during the install and cut two additional speaker holes in the door panels. Hope it sounded good it sure made a mess of the interior. |
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vnavaret Member
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noomg wrote: Vance, Ah, yes. Quadraphonic. A short lived attempt to increase sales in the consumer audio market. You can add to that list the Elcassette. An attempt to dethrone the compact cassette tape and increase the fidelity of taped media. Dolby B shot that idea out of the water. Tsk, tsk. As for cutting up the interior, we all get to deal with "improvements" made by previous owners that we wish they had forgone. <sigh> Such is the price of our fascination with old cars. Don't get me started. I feel your pain. =;-o Vance |
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