View single post by Judson Manning
 Posted: 06-14-2005 03:44 pm
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Judson Manning



Joined: 03-14-2005
Location: Atlanta, Georgia USA
Posts: 406
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I don't want to oversimplify your question, but there is some merit to the phrase:  oil is oil.  Chose a viscosity that keeps oil pressure as high and as consistant as possible.

Royal Purple makes an excellent product, but when I resurect 'dead' engines, it's not the oil that killed them, it was the sludge.

The JH oil cooler and valve cover design traps over a quart of contaminated oil in the engine.  Over time, simply changing the oil nets you with contaminated oil that ALWAYS has 500-1000miles on it.  Without 'clean' oil in the crankcase, the rings get gummed up, blowby increases, and I start getting calls from people needing a rebuild.

Not only do you have to change the oil when it becomes black (contaminated), you have to flush that crud out of your engine on a regular basis.  I recently bought a Mercedes w/ 50k miles on it, serviced religously by MB using Mobil 1 synthetic.  It took me 18qts of 5W20, two quarts of "motor flush" and two filters to get the crankcase cleaned out enough so I could refill it w/ CLEAN Mobil 1.

No matter what oil you chose, change and flush your engine regularly, and use products like Slick 50 at regular intervals.  My Infiniti M30 lasted 12 years, 243k miles, survived numerous driving schools, and won me 2 second place trophies for a reason!

PS:  I run good ole Castol 20W50 in the 907/910 hybrid