View single post by flatlanderep
 Posted: 04-27-2007 05:26 am
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flatlanderep



Joined: 06-24-2006
Location: Charlotte, North Carolina USA
Posts: 61
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UPDATE:

JUST GOT DONE SETTING PLUGS AT .025, NOT ANY BETTER. SO I DID .035....same deal....backfires. I might also note the plugs are glazed - carbon deposits.

I SET IT FOR BEST IDLE, still runs like crap.........BEST IDLE IS @ TDC, 1000 rpm is @ 10 BTDC, 1600 rpm is at 16 BTDC and 2500 is around 18 BTDC. (aren't these close to the manual specs or am I reading something wrong?)

Engine runs rough once warm, choke disengaged, compression good, no vaccuum leaks....etc.

So now, round 84. I'm going to lay the plugs on the manifold again and make sure they are firing in the right order.

Thats the only thing left I can think of to do.

Besides retuning the carbs, but they were fine before the new dizzy. So hmmmmmm.

This might be the neverending post. How do you guys feel about that? Ha.

  - Paul




Mark Rosenbaum wrote: Didn't see a mention of coil type in any of the posts so I'll presume you are using a standard coil with the ballast resistor still in place.  With a standard coil, the plug gaps should be 0.025" not 0.030".  This may contribute to your rough running.

Was the engine still running rough once it warmed up?  Did you remember to disengage the 'choke' once the engine was running fairly well?

Have you checked the compression and verified that each cylinder is about the same, and ideally 120 psi or so?

Have you verified that you have no vacuum leaks anywhere?

When the timing was set, did you disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the distributor?

Have you tried setting the timing for best idle, then seeing what the timing light indicates?  Indicated timing will be 10° off with an old crank pulley on a new engine, or vice versa.

Are the distributor cap and rotor in new or near-new condition?

Last edited on 04-27-2007 07:08 pm by flatlanderep