View single post by Paul Prinsen
 Posted: 07-28-2006 06:12 pm
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Paul Prinsen

 

Joined: 11-20-2005
Location: Medford, Oregon USA
Posts: 19
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I like sandblasting, but do not have the facilities for it. My compressor gets breathless with that kind of air consumption. I do have a spot blaster that I will use for the seams and spots. I tried the 3M stripper disc with a drill, but that is slow too. I did not trust my grinder as it is too fast for the 3M wheel. 

My experiment with kerosene worked well. The car was upside down on a rotisserie. Used kerosene soaked double paper towels under a plastic bag with some sand in it (to keep contact with undercoat). Let this sit overnight. Next day, the undercoat had the consistancy of yogurt, and I was able to scoop it up with a putty knife. Rubbed the exposed surface with dry paper towels, which cleaned most of the remainder off. Finish up with kerosene for spots and Castrol Super-Cean for the final cleanup. The result is a very clean original painted surface, or rusted steel. Either way you have a much friendlier to work on surface than with the tar goo. No dust or chips flying around either.

Initial error I made was to not let it soak long enough. What this does is liquify the top, but the bottom remains hard as a rock.  Also, try to scoop away from seams, as you do not want to load them up with this goop. Remove as much remaining stuff with a dry towel. Do not use a kerosene soaked towel, as that will only spread junk around. For vertical surfaces gravity is not your friend, so sand will not work. To keep the contact pressure (for soaking) sandwich some foam rubber in a bag between the surface and some board. Temperature may be an issue. Higher is better in this case. We had 105 F (40 C) weather here in sunny Medford.

Bunched together rags, soaked with kerosene/oil/tar could self ignite. Wet them down with water; dispose with care.