 |
PM |  | |
Quote | | |
Reply | | |
Full Topic | |
| Joined: | 05-01-2005 |
| Location: | Minneapolis, Minnesota USA |
| Posts: | 578 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
On the other hand, the Auxiliary pulley butts up against a weenie little wire circlip in a groove around the end of the auxiliary pulley. As you tighten the retaining bolt, the pulley is driven back and just over-rides the circlip, and you can NOT achieve a secure, retaining fit. No way!
The 4-cyl engine only fires twice per revolution, and the crank feeds those jerks into the timing belt... it's "NOT" smooth power. Since the wire circlip cannot get a good grip on the pulley, the pulley jerks back and forth (side to side) on the end of the auxiliary pulley. Then the poor little Woodruff Key in the bore, between the shaft & pulley, gets hammered back and forth.
Or, more to the point, it hammers back & forth in the keyway slot in the "aluminum" pulleys internal keyway. The keyway is only aluminum, and it takes a hell of a beating. Over time, the Woodruff key hammer's a wide impression of itself into the bore of the pulley. Instead of a straight, axial slot, the center starts to step wide to the side, and the keyway starts to look more like a "T". The T's top crossbar being the original, straight slot, and the T's vertical leg is what the Woodruff key is hammering to the side... ie, the T's WIDE vertical leg gets longer and longer.
Tightening the retaining bolt doesn't help, since the pulley just over-rides that weenie little wire circlip. "Tighten" as much as you want, the pulley doesn't get clamped any tighter.
As the hammered groove wears longer and longer, the pulley and shaft move back & forth more & more relative to each other, The 'T' groove gets longer, and the distributor/ Ignition Timing just goes nutz. That's what I thought I was fighting.
When I tried to remove the aux pulley, it was rotated a little bit relative to the aux shaft, and the shaft & pulley keyways did not align. The Woodruff key was offset into the T-groove's now long side leg, and trapped. I could NOT pull the pulley off the shaft. Until I got lucky, accidently rotated the pulley relative to the shaft until the two axial keyways aligned, and the pulley came off in my hand. I looked into the bore, and couldn't believe what I saw... a 'T' slot with a 1/2" long center 'T' leg... more than deep enough to catch & trap the pulley on the Woodruff key.
Okay, I needed a new pulley. But I also needed a way to keep the pulley & shaft from working against one another to wear another wide internal slot. My solution was to apply Loctite 242 (Blue) Threadlocker on the end of the shaft and in the bore. Just a thin film, and staying away from the key & keyway. The 242 (Blue) is a "weak" Threadlocker, and won't require a lot of brute force to remove it the next time, but it will hold the pulley & shaft together such that they don't move and wear another 'T' leg in the soft aluminum pulley's bore. Torque tighten to spec, and give the Loctite 24 hours to cure. Re-install teh timing belt, and re-set the ignition timing.
The next time the pulley has to come off (for whatever reason), you will need a small 3-jaw puller and a heat source... a heat gun or propane torch.
Flip the puller's jaws so the hooks on their ends point inward, toward the center. Remove the pulley's retaining bolt, then remove the washer. Re-install the bolt to give the puller's jack-screw something to push against (ie, the head of the bolt).
The rubber lip seal where the aux shaft disappears into the housing is not 'heat safe'. So wrap a wet rag around the bit of aux shaft that is visible between the lip seal and the back side of the aux pulley. Now apply heat directly to the pulley's hub, from behind, aimed forward. Do not direct heat back at the aux housing or lip seal, even with the wet rag present. Work the heat from behind the pulley, aimed forward and down at the hub.
Watch the joint/line between the hub and shaft. When you see a little fluid bubbling in the line, between the pulley hub and shaft, start cranking on the puller. The pulley should come off without a big fight.
Clean off all Loctite residue before re-installing the pulley with fresh Loctite.
Regards,
Tim Engel