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| Joined: | 05-01-2005 |
| Location: | Minneapolis, Minnesota USA |
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THE VALVE JOB IS COMPLETE, BUT BEFORE I REASSEMBLE THE ENGINE, I'D LIKE TO CHECK/ ADJUST THE VALVES....WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO DO THIS AT THIS POINT?
Bill,
So, at what POINT is it?... head on the bench or engine fully assembled? And what all was involved in doing the valve job?
If the valves and/or seats were replaced, then there's very little chance that the clearances are close to where they were before you started. If the valves were ground and lapped, clearances will definitely be tighter than before, if not into negative numbers. Plan on doing a full re-shim.
Specs cold are: Exhaust = 0.010 - 0.012 inch. Intake = 0.005 / 0.007 inch. When you shim the valves, target the upper end of the ranges (.012 & .007). The clearances close up with wear, so starting at the high end of the range will optimize the time/miles before you have to go in there again.
If the head is still on the bench, you can install the cam carriers and check the clearances there. Just note that at full lift, the valve will stick out of the combustion chamber. If you set the head down on an open valve, you risk bending the valve. Block the head up with a couple of chunks of wood such that the valves are free to move without contacting anything. Then you're free to spin the cam's at will since the valve heads will not contact one another at full stock lift.
If the engine is fully assembled, then remove the cam covers. Manually turn the engine over in it's normal direction of rotation until the cam lobe is on the side of the shaft opposite the tappet... pointing directly away from the tappet. If the head is on the bench, use a 17mm wrench on the pullley bolt to turn the cam. Press down on the tappet to make sure it's fully seated, then use a feeler gauge to check the clearances.
I have an Excel spreadsheet that does the mental part for you. Let me know if you would like a copy forwarded to you as a file attachment.
Tim