View single post by discogodfather
 Posted: 07-07-2020 08:09 am
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discogodfather



Joined: 09-17-2007
Location: San Francisco, California USA
Posts: 221
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 The wheel bearing is easy to adjust, there is a small dust cover and it comes off to reveal a castle nut with a cotter pin through it. Remove that, and then be sure there is enough grease in there. Screw the nut back in until it's tight.

Now the wheel will not turn anymore. Screw the nut out by 25 degrees in increments until it goes to a light drag and then spins freely, put the cotter pin and castle nut back in place, you are set. It's described this way in the factory service manual as well.

The transmission rubber grommet it available on ebay and from Delta for about $15. It's worth it to keep garbage out of there.

Drain the tranny fluid and replace it with half 90 weight GL4 gear oil (avoid GL5) and half Lucas Oil stabilizer. The Lucas stuff is basically a 110 weight oil with lots of zinc in it, should help on old boxes that are fussy.

When you steam clean, disconnect the battery and don't reconnect it until after it's dry. Wrapping the distributor, alternator, and carbs in a ziploc bag is also very helpful as water can get in and make things difficult to start later on. Stuff some shop towels in the carb bores if they airbox isn't tight (or missing) or cracked.

If there is consistent clutch slipping and the rubber gater is gone on the bellhousing, try and take a mirror with a flashlight and see if that oil leak didn't contaminate the clutch. If it did, steam clean the clutch. I had a small rear main leak and it did get some oil in there, and I steamed it out and practically everything came out. Just make sure it's completely dry before taking off. Other than that it could just be a worn clutch.