Question about Brazing. I have started in cutting off and replacing my trunk lip flange. The rust only got to the verticle part of the lip. The horizontal part is good. So I cut off the lip and fabricated a new lip from 20 gauge sheet metal. I formed it into an L shape so it will fit under the horizontal part remaining. Everything is cleaned to bare metal, degreased and clamped in place. I then attempted to braze in a section and found it difficult. I have to get the metal glowing red hot before the Flux coated Brazing rod will melt. I'm not an expert on Brazing, but seems more like welding to me! I'm using 1/16 rod and an acetylene torch. Should I use a smaller tip ? Adjust the flame so its not so hot ? That is heat it slower somehow ? Heat from opposite side ? I'm afrade I'm going to melt right through the sheet metal. And its burning off my paint for 2 inches around ! Maybe I should just solder it, if that would hold. Or tack weld it in places and solder the rest. I will add some pictures soon.
The rest of the car is pretty rust free. The front fenders are off, and only had minor surface rust at the fender-rocker joint. Looks like same problem at rear fender-rocker joint. How hard is it to remove rear fenders ? And this POR 15 stuff. Sounds like this can be put right over rust without cleaning. How good does that work ? If you have surface rust and you sand and clean the surface, then use POR 15, will this repair hold up for quite awhile ? In the past I have sanded and/or glass beaded surface rust, treated metal with 3M metal conditioner to neutralize any remaining rust, then primed with a good epoxy primer. Would POR 15 be better than using epoxy primer ?
Gary
Last edited on 10-22-2005 07:00 pm by Gary Martin JH 15371
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