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|1 Forget about removing the engine, way too much work
2 Raising the engine a bit makes it easier to get at some of the bolts holding the header on, but is not absolutely necessary. When I have replaced the header, I usually raise the left side of engine with the floor jack and soft wood between the jack and the engine to distribute the pressure you described. With my current header, I also need to add an extra 1/4" spacer under the left-hand engine mount to keep the header from hitting the steering column when everything is back together. From what I have read, others have had the same sort of problem. You also need to disconnect the steering column at least at one end, disconnecting both ends makes removal and installation easier. If you are going to replace the bushing, might as well do it that way. Reaching all the header bolts is also easier if you remove the front left wheel. The tools I needed to remove the bolts were open end and box wrenches as well as a ratchet wrench with long extensions and a u-joint. A good quality 12mm socket also makes things easier: cheap ones tend jam up more. Sorry, I cannot help with details of replacing the bushing. I have never done it. Hope the rest is some help.