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| Joined: | 09-10-2012 |
| Location: | Little Chute, Wisconsin USA |
| Posts: | 435 |
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(There is a question at the end of this post that I do need answered... sorry about placing it there but I figured you'd want all this info first)
First of all, thanks to UKJames for the advice on pulling the pedal box. That went quite well. I got the old booster removed without too much trouble. Then, I got the new one installed on the pedal box. Here's where things get interesting....
A side note: this is the booster that I purchased "slightly used" on eBay. It's the same one Greg used to sell in the JHPS club store a few years back (using his picture). Does anyone else have one of these? Because my question is pretty specific to this particular booster.
When I installed it into the pedal box and connected everything back up, I noticed that the brake pedal was not quite lined up with the other pedals... it was over an inch closer to the floor. In fact, I had measured the distance from the booster face to the end of the clevis on both old and new and found about a half inch difference. If I would have stopped there, I probably wouldn't be asking what I am about to ask.
Anyway, being impatient, I put it all back together, got the new master cylinder installed after bench bleeding it, and when I went to test things I realized my problem. That business about the brake pedal being lower was because the clevis rod is shorter, of course... but it's so short that it's not even contacting the brake light switch, so the brake lights never turn off. Arggh.
So, my question (after perusing the boards first).. does this particular booster have an adjustment for the length of the clevis rod? Is it as simple as rotating it to screw it in or out? And... though I assume I already know the answer... is it possible to adjust it while everything is installed in the car, or do I have to take it all apart again?
Last edited on 03-02-2015 07:20 am by answerman