View single post by answerman
 Posted: 12-11-2012 06:37 am
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Joined: 09-10-2012
Location: Little Chute, Wisconsin USA
Posts: 435
Oh yeah, the garage is all ready... got it all insulated and heating installed a couple of months back. I'm good there.

Actually I don't think the body work will be that bad. I've done it before... I've got a pretty good setup with a serious air compressor and a good dual action sander. My concern is that I want to only do this once, and I'd rather take the extra time to get the paint right than find out I have rust coming through in a couple of years. There's a bit of bubbling in a few spots and a couple of places where the paint is actually cracked, as though it didn't adhere properly the first time and then raised up. That's the main reason for the repaint. Once I have her prepared to my satisfaction, I have access to a professional paint booth and equipment (the benefit of not burning bridges with previous employers, and she won't be the first car painted in that booth). I haven't decided how far I am going to take the paint as far as the engine compartment etc, but I am planning on removing the hood, trunklid (I should say bonnet and boot, no?) and the doors to at least do them right.

Timing belt and brakes are pretty straightforward, as you said. I've not done anything with the rear brakes but as you said I probably should.

It's still the stock points ignition. The wiring is all correct from what I've matched to the wiring diagram in the manual and tested with my Fluke. If I take the tach out of the circuit she doesn't run past the first catch so it's definitely in series... in fact I jumpered the two wires together with the tach out and then she started up. I really think it's the tach itself. It's one of those things that doesn't affect how she runs, but it'll bother me till I get it figured out.

The light switch is... basically junk. It doesn't stay together (the back falls right off) and it's not making good contact when I push it together. If I tap the switch with my finger when the lights are on I can get them to flicker. I figure a new switch is a small price to pay.

I really don't know the status of the carbs... they are Strombergs with the K&N aftermarket filters. Supposedly the previous owner had them rebuilt, but I can't vouch for that, though they do look pretty clean (in fact the whole engine is pretty clean). Like I said, she runs fine once she warms up so I assume it's just adjusting.