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| Joined: | 03-12-2005 |
| Location: | Kingman, Arizona USA |
| Posts: | 532 |
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Normally, when the engine mounts are still a bit loose, the transmission crossmember should slip onto its mounting studs without interference. The engine/tranny assembly is then pried and jacked into alignment, and finally all three mounts are tightened. Properly done, this minimizes the static stress on the engine mounts, making their failure far less likely.
SAFETY WARNING: The transmission crossmember mounting studs tend to be a bit soft in some cars, and as a result the pinch-type lock nuts used by the factory may damage them after being removed and replaced a few times. Consequently, it is vital to examine each stud very carefully, and to replace it with a Grade 5 or better bolt if there is any doubt as to its condition. For a race car, you may wish to use Assembly grade drilled bolts and cotter pins.
If you find that the driveshaft hits the stiffener at the rear of the transmission tunnel (which isn't likely except in 4-speed cars), be aware that the factory used several different stiffeners having a variety of shapes. AFAIK, all of these had the same Jensen part number, and none is documented by anything other than a line drawing in the parts book. I'd think you could fabricate a stiffener that would offer proper clearance to both driveshaft and road without arousing the ire of any scrutineer.