View single post by subwoofer
 Posted: 06-06-2011 07:23 pm
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Joined: 04-01-2008
Location: Sandefjord, Norway
Posts: 583
I'll try as best as I can to walk you through it, beginning with the return spring. There should be one spring at the back of each carb, but these are not strong enough to pull the throttle cable all the way back, so there must be a third spring, marked with the red arrow in the first picture.

Unless the ignition is less than 2 degrees off, you should leave the nut pointed to by the blue arrow alone, and loosen the distributor clamp (green arrow) just enough that you can turn the distributor. Don't loosen too much, or the distributor will pop out, leaving you fiddling for a while to replace it. It is wise to mark your starting position with a scribe or pencil in case you suddenly get a lot of movement (happens easily). Rotating the top of the distributor towards the cylinders will retard the timing, away will advance it.

I recommend that you stop the engine between adjustments, since over advancing it while running will cause flames to spit out through the carbs - in close proximity to where your face probably is at that exact moment...

These are your timing reference marks. If you have a dumb timing gun like I have (no dial on it), the mark on the crankshaft pulley (red arrow) should line up with the "10" mark (blue arrow) when you point the gun at the pulley and pull the trigger while the engine is idling (inductive pickup clamped around #1 plug wire). Revving it should make it move close to the "30" mark, but not above. If your timing is WAY out (as in not firing at all), marking the notch on the pulley with some brightly coloured nail polish stolen from your wife will make it a lot easier to spot during the flash.

Sorry for the out-of-focus shots, it was the best my phone would let me do today.